For our 2nd Annual International Trip, Andrew and I initially had a hard time deciding where to go; there were just too many amazing places in the world. As fate would have it, we received a wedding invitation from my close friend, Seda informing us that she was getting married in Turkey. As a result, we decided to head to Turkey for the wedding, and spend time in Istanbul, one of the world's great cities.
Istanbul is the country’s number one destination for visitors with over eight million visitors annually. (That's about equivalent to the population of New York City). Istanbul is the crossroads of civilizations; it’s where Europe meets Asia, where the East meets West
The city has had several names throughout its history: Byzantium, Nova Roma, Constantinople, and finally, Istanbul. In the 7th century, the Greeks founded Byzantium as an important straight between the Black Sea and Mediterranean Sea. In 330 CE, Constantine the Great moved his capital of the Roman Empire to a more strategic position, Byzantium, and declared it to be Nova Roma. Shortly after his death, Nova Roma took on the name Constantinople in his honor. In 1453, the Ottoman Turks conquered Constantinople, and renamed it to Istanbul.
Turkey is the most moderate Muslim country in the region. The majority of Turkish Muslims prefer a more liberal interpretation of modesty, and dress is left to individual choice. In Istanbul, we saw women in contemporary trends as well as head to toe coverings.
The only restrictions on attire we encountered were when entering mosques. It’s appreciated as a sign of respect, and personally, I didn’t think that it was unreasonable. If individuals did not have the correct clothing, the mosque normally loaned it free of charge. If you preferred not to enter due to personal beliefs, you could still admire the mosques’ exterior beauty.
If you're entering a mosque for the first time, here's a helpful guide.
Basic Mosque Etiquette
- Men and women should cover their knees and shoulders. Women should also cover their hair with a scarf.
- Shoes must be removed before entering a mosque. If you enter and exit through different doors, use a plastic bag to carry your shoes. Otherwise, leave them on the wooden rack.
- Inside the mosque, a large area is often cordoned off and reserved for worshippers. Stay behind these lines. Areas in the back and behind screens, or the upper level galleries, are reserved for women.
Enjoy our Turkey Adventure Part 1!
- Hagia Sophia (Aya Sofya)
- Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Camii)
- Egyptian Obelisk
- Column of the Serpent
- Column of Constantine
- Sokollu Mehmet Pasha Mosque
- Türk Ocağı İstanbul Şubesi (Old Ottoman Cemetery)
- Nuruosmaniye Mosque
- The Grand Bazaar
- Spice Market
- Süleymaniye Mosque
- New Mosque
We were lucky that Turkish Airlines had just added the new non-stop flight from San Francisco to Istanbul on April 2015. Surprisingly, time flew by on this 13 hr 5 min flight.
Almost there.
Hagia Sophia
(Aya Sofya)
Hagia Sophia was built as the Great Church of Constantinople by Byzantine Emperor Justinian I in 537 CE. Following the Ottoman Turks' conquest in 1453, Sultan Mehmed II converted it into an imperial mosque. In 1935, the Republic of Turkey secularized the building, and declared it a museum.
Hagia Sophia is the most important architectural achievement of the Byzantine Empire and one of the world's great monuments. It retains unique elements of both the Byzantine and Ottoman Empires and their respective religions, Orthodox Christianity and Islam.
In the mid 18th century, the Ottomans added this fountain for ritual cleansing before prayer as part of Islamic tradition.
In the mosaic, Mary and the Christ child are enthroned. On the right is Constantine with a model of his city, Constantinople. On the left is Justinian presenting a model of his greatest achievement, Hagia Sophia.
The interior narthex has nine vaulted bays decorated with mosaics. The walls on either side are lined with inch thick marble panels, and are decorated with mosaics.
The imperial gate was reserved for the emperor, and was opened only for him. The Ottomans attached metal hooks to the top of the doorway to hold leather curtains to protect worshipers from dust and to reduce the interruption of a giant door opening and closing.
Welcome to the Hagia Sophia!
Hagia Sophia was designed as a classical basilica covered by a vast central dome. A few decades after completion, part of the dome collapsed due to initial geometric miscalculations. Although the dome was repaired using steeper angles than the original, it again collapsed and had to be rebuilt in the 6th and 10th centuries.
The main dome is 185 feet high, and 105 feet in diameter. The dome's weight is held up by the walls, which explains why there are very few windows. Furthermore, the Byzantines built additional arches inside the walls to help further distribute the weight.
The windows at the base of the dome used clear glass, while other windows throughout the building used thin alabaster to further diffuse the light and create a more dramatic effect.
When Hagia Sophia was converted from a church into a mosque, many of its original decorations, and figurative mosaics and frescoes were removed in accordance with Islamic custom.
At the base of the dome between intersecting arches, two of the winged seraphim have had their gold leaf masks removed to reveal the angels' faces.
In the 19th century, master Islamic calligraphers added eight 24 foot wide wooden medallions of leading Muslim figures.
The omphalion was the place of the coronation ceremony for the Eastern Roman Emperors.
The mimber is the pulpit in a mosque, used by the iman (cleric) to deliver sermons. The imam stands halfway up the stairs as a sign of respect, reserving the uppermost step for the Prophet Muhammad.
When Hagia Sophia was converted into a mosque, a niche was added to show the precise direction to face during prayers (mirab). Above is a colorful Mosaic of Mary and the Christ Child. The mosaic dates from the 9th century, and is the oldest in Hagia Sophia.
In the 19th century, the gilded room under the medallion was added as an elevated prayer section for the sultans.
The green marble columns carry the upper galleries and provide support to the domes, easing the burden on the buttresses and the exterior walls.
This alabaster urn is one of two Hellenistic-era urns (2nd century BCE) that the sultan brought to Istanbul from Pergamon, an ancient city north of Aegean Turkey. The urn functioned as drinking fountain for worshippers.
The purple porphyry columns behind us are older than the Hagia Sophia. Iron girdles were once placed around the columns to prevent further damage.
The Column of St. Gregory is the legendary "perspiring column." For centuries, people believed this column wept holy water that could cure afflictions. Put your thumb in the hole, and if it comes out feeling damp, your prayer will be answered.
Who wants to take a dip into the snake patterned pool?
Time for the upper galleries.
Time for the upper galleries.
High ranking officials were carried up the long, stone paved ramp to the upper galleries by their servants or rode up on horseback.
The upper galleries contain Hagia Sophia's best known mosaics.
Standing in the spot reserved for the empress' throne.
View fit for royalty.
The South Gallery frescoes are copies of ancient designs, redone by the Fossati brothers during their 19th century restoration work.
Deisis Mosaic, 13 century.
The Virgin Mary and John the Baptist requesting Christ's intercession for humanity.
Mosaic of the Virgin and Child with Emperor John Comnenus and Empress Irene, 12th century.
Mary stands in the center, holding the Christ Child in her arms while Christ extends his right hand in blessing to the Emperor and Empress.
Mosaic of Christ with Emperor Constantine IX Monomachus and Empress Zoe, 11th century.
Happy together.
On to the next stop!
Türbe of Sultan Mustafa I (Baptistery)
After the death of Sultan Mustafa I in 1639, the Hagia Sophia baptistry was transformed into his tomb. Of the five tombs in the Hagia Sophia's garden, this is the most simplest.
Sultan Mustafa I, Sultan Ibrahim, Sultan Ahmed I's daughters, Sultan Murad IV's daughter Kaya Sultan, and Sultan Ahmed's sons are buried in this tomb.
Türbe of Sultan Murad III
Tomb of Sultan Murad III is one of the largest Ottoman tombs with its hexagon layout, double domes, exterior marble coating, and the arcaded section on the front.
The twin-dome is decorated in coral-red tiles bordered with excerpts from the Quran.
Türbe of Sultan Selim II
The octagonal tomb of Sultan Selim II is one of the most elaborate in the city; the exterior is paved with marble and the entry is decorated in tile panels.
Sultan Selim II, his wife Nurbanu Sultan, Sokullu Mehmed Pasha (Grand Vizier)'s wife Esmihan Sultan, the daughters and the sons of Sultan Murad III were buried here.
Türbe of Sultan Mehmed III
Marble galore!
Blue Mosque
(Sultanahmet Camii)
The Blue Mosque was built during the 17th century by Sultan Ahmet I. It was originally named for its patron, but it was later known for its rich blue color of handmade ceramic tiles that decorate its interior.
Usually, a single minaret was adequate for a mosques' function, but many sultans showed off their wealth by financing more. The Blue Mosque is unique for its six minarets, rivaling that of the mosque in Mecca.
During special services, the mosque oftentimes reaches maximum capacity, so additional worshippers use the front area or inner courtyard to pray.
Waiting in line to enter the Blue Mosque.
We're in.
Amazing!
More than 20,000 İznik ceramic tiles were used to decorate the mosque. İznik was the Ottoman Empire's tile making center, and these exquisite tiles are prominently featured in many museums around the world.
The dome is 141 feet high, and 110 feet wide.
The weight of the heavy dome is distributed by four gigantic pillars (elephant legs) instead of thick, bulky walls.
Each pillar is 77 feet in diameter.
The pillars allow the architect to fill the walls with 260 decorative windows which brighten up the interior.
Thick patchwork of handmade rugs that once covered the floor were removed for preservation and replaced with the machine made carpeting complete with lines for organizing worshippers.
The mosque is decorated with painted florals, geometric patterns, and artful calligraphy since Islamic tradition prohibits the portrayal of human figures in places of worship.
I'm blue da ba dee da ba die.
The Blue Mosque represents the pinnacle of Ottoman architecture, and marks the beginning of the empire's decline. After its construction, the treasury was exhausted, and the Ottoman Empire entered a period of stagnation that eventually led to its collapse.
Egyptian Obelisk
The Egyptian Obelisk was carved in 1500 BCE to honor Pharaoh Thutmose III, and his military achievements. During the 4th century, this pillar was brought from the Temple of Karnak on the Upper Nile to Constantinople. Only the upper third of the original tall stone column remains.
The most interesting part is the Byzantine base, which was cut out of white marble and stands on four bronze feet. All four sides of the base depict Emperor Theodosius the Great.
Column of the Serpent
This monument was dedicated to the Gods by the Greeks to commemorated their victory against the Persians at Plataea in 479 BCE. Originally, this column showed three serpents twisted together supporting a golden trophy, but the heads have since vanished.
Column of Constantine
This column was built during the 4th century, and is a Constantinople original. The exterior was sheeted with bronze panels until the Crusades, when it was pulled down to make weapons.
Sokollu Mehmet Pasha Mosque
The Sokollu Mehmet Pasha Mosque was built in 1571 for Grand Vizier Sokullu.
In the center of the inner courtyard is a fountain that was once used for ablutions.
The mosque is unique for its several gold framed fragments from the sacred Black Stone in the Kaaba at Mecca. Muslims believe that this stone descended from the heavens to show the Prophet Abraham where to build a temple.
Türk Ocağı İstanbul Şubesi
(Old Ottoman Cemetery)
The Old Ottoman Cemetery is home to many famous Ottomans throughout history.
Traditional pillar and turban shaped tombstones.
At the far end is a mausoleum that honors Sultan Mahmut II, who ruled during the 19th century.
The chandelier hanging from the center of the dome demonstrates the eclectic taste of the time.
As was tradition, the caskets are actually empty, and the bodies are buried underground. Caskets with hats are for men; flowers were for women.
Nuruosmaniye Mosque
This Ottoman baroque style mosque was built from 1748 and 1755. Construction began by order of Sultan Mahmut I, and completed by his successor Sultan Osman III.
Nuruosmaniye means "The Light of Osman," referring to the numerous windows illuminating the mosque's interior.
Despite Nuruosmaniye Mosque's modern baroque style architecture, there are many echoes of the ancient Hagia Sophia.
The Grand Bazaar
The Grand Bazaar is the world's oldest shopping mall. The prime location attracted guilds, manufacturers, and traders, eventually becoming the center for trade in the entire Ottoman Empire.
Through the 1950s, The Grand Bazaar remained Turkey's commercial hub for both local and international traders. However, popularity among tourists caused prices and rent to increase eventually displacing modest shopkeepers outside the bazaar.
The Grand Bazaar's main street, Kalpakcilar Cadesi.
Many Turks prefer to invest in gold due to the fluctuating Turkish lira.
There are more than 4,000 shops selling everything you can imagine. Merchants are aggressive, so don't feel compelled to buy anything you don't want. Go ahead and break their hearts!
Taking a break from the crowds, and enjoying some delicious Turkish coffee at the popular Pedaliza Restaurant.
Spice Market
The market hall was built in the 17th century to promote the spice trade in Istanbul.
Definitely not for the claustrophobic.
The Spice Market is filled with fragrant spices, dried fruit, and roasted nuts. The Turkish dried apricots and figs make an especially great gift.
Süleymaniye Mosque
The mosque was constructed in the 16th century for the 10th sultan of the Ottoman Empire, Süleyman the Magnificent. His reign was during the Golden Age of Ottoman history, when the empire was the world's greatest power.
There are four minarets, symbolizing the initial four caliphs (religious and social leaders who succeeded the Prophet Mohammed).
The domed porticos around the perimeter are elevated, and reserved for overflow when services fill up. Additionally, the porticos provide shade in summer and shelter in winter.
Before entering the mosque, remember to remove your shoes, and place them on the wooden shelves.
The dome has a diameter of 90 feet.
Turkey's Greatest Architect, Mimar Sinan used four irregularly shaped pillars to support the arches and dome. These "elephant feet's" are masked by an arcaded gallery, giving the impression of an uncluttered space.
In contrast to the Blue Mosque, the interior is subtly understated, and decorated in plain pastel tones.
Garden
Sultan's view of the Bosphorus, Europe, and Asia.
Say Cheese!
Türbe of Süleyman
Mausoleums of Süleyman the Magnificent (right) and his wife, Roxelana (left).
In 1566, Süleyman went on a military campaign to Zigetvar. The sultan died silently, so his Grand Vizier, fearing the army would disband, kept his death a secret until after the returning in victory to Istanbul.
This mausoleum was built by the best stonemasons and marble workers in the empire. It's decorated with floral designed İznik tiles, marble paintwork, and intricate woodwork on the window and door shutters.
On either side of the entrance are beautiful tile frames.
The larger tomb at the center is Suleyman's. On either side are Suleyman's two heirs, their relatives, and daughter.
New Mosque
The New Mosque dates back from 1597, and is one of the latest examples of classical, traditional style Ottoman mosques.
Its design references both the Blue Mosque and Süleymaniye Mosque, with a large forecourt and square sanctuary surmounted by semi-domes crowned by a grand dome.
The dome measures 118 feet high, and has a diameter of 57 feet.
The interior is richly decorated with golf leaf, colored İznik tiles and carved marble.
The low hanging chandeliers were designed for oil lamps with floating wicks.
Turkey Adventure Part 1 Complete!
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